{"title":"Sports \u0026 Recreation--Water Sports--Surfing","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"escape-from-tonga","title":"Escape from Tonga","description":"\u003cp\u003eBack in 1986, 25-year old California surfer Randy Dale was living the carefree life as a fisherman. Wrongfully accused of a crime he did not commit and facing a prison sentence on the remote island of Tonga, he makes a daring decision. In the dead of night, Randy steals a twenty-foot fishing boat with one clear intention: to set sail for Australia, where the promise of freedom awaits. With over two thousand nautical miles of open ocean sailing experience, Randy embarks on a treacherous fifty-two-day journey that will have him teetering on the edge of starvation and severe dehydration, testing the limits of human endurance.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe days turn into weeks and weeks into months, and Randy's battle against the elements becomes a relentless test of character. Starvation, thirst, isolation, and the ever-present threat of death shape this narrative into one rollicking sea yarn. The story of his harrowing voyage delves deep into Randy's psyche through excerpts from his journal, offering a mesmerizing look at the psychological intricacies of his ordeal. Randy's memories, woven throughout the narrative, transport him to some of the world's most iconic surfing destinations. Indonesia, Hawaii, Australia, Mainland Mexico, and Baja. These idyllic waves become his mental refuge, a connection to the surfer's soul that refuses to be extinguished. These reveries, juxtaposed with the stark reality of his situation, illuminate the mind's capacity for resilience and escapism. 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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003eRaised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. \u003ci\u003eBarbarian Days\u003c\/i\u003e takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003eFinnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly--he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui--is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ci\u003eBarbarian Days \u003c\/i\u003eis an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.\u003cb\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cdiv style=\"display:none\"\u003eISBN-10: 0143109391\u003cbr\u003eISBN-13: 9780143109396\u003cbr\u003eAuthor: Finnegan, William, N\/A, N\/A\u003cbr\u003ePublisher: Penguin Books\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Penguin Books","offers":[{"title":"Paperback (Apr 2016)","offer_id":45659784937669,"sku":"9780143109396","price":20.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0708\/6414\/2533\/files\/9780143109396.jpg?v=1768914268"},{"product_id":"hound-of-the-sea-wild-man-wild-waves-wild-wisdom","title":"Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eIn this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara--star and subject of the HBO mini-series, \u003ci\u003e100 Foot Wave--\u003c\/i\u003echronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth.\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eGarrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers in extreme surfing adventures to hurricane swells.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBut what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes--to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender?\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePersonal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn't just thrill seeking, he explains--it's about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present, a theme that makes this one of the most inspirational books of its kind. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara's story--as they have William Finnegan's \u003ci\u003eBarbarian Days\u003c\/i\u003e--an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eHound of the Sea\u003c\/i\u003e is an unforgettable inspirational memoir and a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. 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But as America's crises piled up and David spiraled into existential dread, he noticed that his brother-in-law was thriving. He began to suspect Matt's favorite hobby had something to do with it. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e David started taking surf lessons. For months, he wiped out on waves the height of daffodils. Yet, after realizing that surfing could change him both in and out of the water, he set an audacious goal: riding a big wave in Hawaii. He searched for an expert he could trust to guide and protect him--and when he couldn't find one, he asked Matt. Together, they set out on a journey that spanned coasts, and even continents, before taking them to Oahu's famously dangerous North Shore. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e \u003ci\u003eIt's Only Drowning\u003c\/i\u003e is a laugh-out-loud love letter to surfing--and so much more. It's an ode to embarking on adventures at any age. It's a blueprint for becoming braver at a time when it takes courage just to read the news. 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How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing--not even the loss of her arm--could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii, Bethany responded to the shark's stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003ePushing pain and panic aside, she began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: \"Get to the beach.\" And when the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was \"When can I surf again?,\" it became clear that her spirit and determination were part of a greater story--a tale of courage and faith that this soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world. \u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ci\u003eSoul Surfer\u003c\/i\u003e is a moving account of Bethany's life as a young surfer, her recovery after the attack, the adjustments she's made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. 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